Methods For Drafting Star Wars Patterns Part – 1 Piece & Preexisting Patterns

There are no patterns as of yet that are available for the movie accurate Costumes of Star Wars. So where to start? Well it depends on what you want to costume for? Assuming that you want the costume for movie accurate costuming purposes then there are 3 basic options. In this post we’ll talk about the piece together preexisting patterns options.

Note: As to date none of the official or none official sold Star Wars costume patterns are accurate to the screen (that you can buy in stores such as Simplicity, Butterick or Jo-ann’s Fabric ect.).  This includes the patterns sold in the 1970’s and though they are good places to start if your interested in them, however, don’t drop a lot of money on them and expect your getting the real thing. We’ve seen them being resold by online sellers from $40 – $60+ and we really think this is not grate as they originally retail for much less and again are not accurate to the movie. So here are some other options.

Overview:

Maybe the lest intimidating piecing together or using already existing patterns can be a good place to start. You can find a pattern that already is similar to your needs and use it strait without any alteration. You can use a pattern that is similar and alter it to be more accurate. Or piece several existing pastern together to make a more accurate version of the pattern you need.

Maggie’s Costuming Site talks a little about this in her wright up of the making of her Padme Tatooine Pancho costume. Here she talks about what patterns she used that already where made by a pattern company. As you can see from her pictures she had very good results from this method of creating a pattern. KayDeealso has a grate example of using already existing patterns are a starting point for her costume making.

Pros:

  • Similar for beginner sowers
  • Easily accessible for almost everyone
  • Saves time of pattern drafting

Cons:

  • If buying knew can be expensive
  • Lots of time looking for a pattern that is the right
  • Having to alter patterns to be the right

ROTS: Naboo Royal Makeup: Queen Apailana

Apailana is the Queen of Naboo during the time of Revenge of the Sith and is seen at Padme’s funeral. The makeup she wears is similar to that of other past Queen’s of Naboo, the face base is the same as Amidala and Jamillia. See Amidala’s makeup post for the face base details. In general it is an off white face base that’s applied to the face, ears and neck.

Apailana lines 1
(Cheek Dots and Lines)

Like with Amidala’s cheek dots, Apailana’s cheek dots are roughly in line with the outer edge of the iris. Apailana’s cheek dots are blue, and above them a line is drawn that is same width as the dots.

Apailana lines 2
(Cheek Dots In Line With Nose Tip)

The cheek dots are roughly in line with the tip of the nose, this is the same as Amidala and Jamillia.

Apailana lines 3
(Lines End On Forhead)

The blue lines that go up to the lower lids and end at the lash line, the lines continue starting at the crease and going up over the brow bone and onto the forehead. These go above her eyebrows roughly the same height of an eye.

Apailana make up 4 lips 2
(Narrow Blue lip stripe)

The lips are painted blue the same color of blue as the cheek dots. the tip lip in filled in with blue in its natural shape, no over drawing. The bottom lip has a small rectangle in the center of it. The bottom lip blue strip is the same width as the lines above the cheek dots. The rest of the lips are white like the face base.

Apailana make up 5 tear jewles 2
(Clear Jewels In Eye Corners)

In the corners of the eyes, just below the corners and tear ducks small round clear jewels are placed. They are the same shapes as rhinestones and very small.

Apailana make up 6 eyeliner light 2
(Thine Eyeliner And Light Mascara)

Apailana wears light mascara and also a very narrow strip of black eyeliner on the upper lid. There are no wing or thick or over drawn lines here. There also appears to be a setting powder on the lids.

Apailana make up 7 eyebrows 2
(Filled In Eyebrows)

The eyebrows are also filled in with a dark liner, the shape is natural and not over drawn.

Aesthetic Influences Part-2: Star Wars: Fortuny Pleating

Mock-Fortuny pleating is featured in several Star Wars Costumes, all of them from Naboo. It seems to be a Naboo easthetic in the Galaxy Far Far Away. Unfortunately Fortuny Pleating is a lost wonder of the fashion world, in a nutshell the means to create the pleating died with Mariano Fortuny the man who invented it and as of yet has not fully been recovered. The Padawan’s Guide has already touched on the similarities between many of the Naboo clothing and Fortuny Pleating.

The Fortuny Dresses are sometimes refereed to as The Delphos Gown, and where very created to be a house dress and later a tea gown worn by wealthy woman at the turn of the 19th’s century. The wonderful thing about these original gowns is that they must be twisted into a small ball for storage, which means they take up very little room.

In Star Wars, Padme and her Handmaidens wear gowns with a similar pleating. Though it is not stated anywhere we have found yet that this was that the Delphos Gowns where an influence on the Naboo aesthetic, the light silks and unique pleating of the gowns makes a good case that they where.

Fortuny Pleating Replica loop

Star Wars Franchise: Working With Synthetic Braiding Hair

Hair is one of the most stunning pieces of costuming in the Star Wars franchise, however, sometimes working with synthetic hair can be difficult. Here are some suggestions that might make working with synthetic hair easier.

Why Synthetic Hair?:

Synesthetic hair is a better option for making hair pieces for achieve Star Wars hair styles then human hair in most cases. Often times human hair is unethically sourced so avoiding it is a good idea, unless you know it’s origins. That said, if your human hair can he ethically sourced then it can also work well, however, it is always going to be a less affordable option.

Some articles that break down the ethical issues of  human hair extensions

Synthetic hair is also more affordable, for many of the hairstyles in Star Wars a lot of hair is required, and that can become very expensive. Synthetic hair like Kenekalon Braiding Hair and other brands like it are typically a more affordable option when buying a lot of hair. Synesthetic hair can also hold up longer then human hair when taken care of

Another alternative to human hair is horse hair, buying horse hair extensions, they are less affordable and depending on the sealer may also be unethically sourced. However, as an option, the hair is natural and looks so.

Weight, real human hair can be heavy, synthetic hair is often times lighter weight then real hair and can be worn longer because of this.

Styling products, when styling with synthetic hair, styling products such as hair spray or moose, are not needed, because the hairs are all the same length unless altered there are few if any fly-always that need to be smoothed.

Hair Color:

When using synesthetic hair for a costuming it can be hard to find a matching color, this is partly due to the fact that natural hair is not one color, humans have several different colors making up teach individuals hair including high-light and low-lights. Synesthetic hair is typically one color, and it’s hard to match and make it look natural right out of the package. For a more natural look blending 2 too 3 colors of hair together will help, see video for tutorial on blending. (Note: for making hair look more natural, using more of the base color and chose a smaller amount of your high-lights and low-lights.)

Hair Texture:

2 of the main textures for synesthetic hair are natural or yaki and silky, both will work great, however, most Star Wars hairstyles in the movies use a silky finish, this is not as important when doing a hairstyle such as Classic Leia (a.k.a Political Gown Leia), however, most of the headdresses that Queen Amidala wears require silky hair finish to be used, such as her Red Invasion Gown headdress.

Tangling:

Synesthetic hair can tangle easily, so to untangle it start by brushing or combing depending on the need, at the ends and slowly working up the tail of the hair. Starting at the top and going to the ends will only make the tangling worse and more difficult to get out. Sometimes using fingers to come the hair can be easier then a brush, and if using a brush a wig brush would probably work better then a normal hair brush. For general untangling and styling a wide toothed come works grate.

Washing:

For some people synthetic hair can be itchy right out of the package, to remove the coating the hair comes with make a bath or water and vinegar and let the hair sock a while, then rinse and let dry. This processes might be easiest if the hair is still in its loosely braided form that it comes in right out of the package.

 

Storing:

Storing the synthetic hair for reuse, put a fabric covered elastic at the center of the hair bundle and loosely braid the hair. Coil the braid into a circle and place inside a hairnet. See Alexa Poletti’s video on storing wigs.

Resources:

Star Wars: Puttees

Throughout both Lucas trilogies and the New EU movies, Puttee’s have been used in Star Wars costuming. (Puttee’s are leg wrappings that cover from the ankle up to the knee.) Luke Skywalker is the most recognizable character in Star Wars that wears Puttees, Luke in A New Hope wears putties with his boots throughout the movie as part of his Tatooine moisture farmer outfit. However, many other characters also wear puttees in Star Wars, Anakin as a slave in The Phantom Menace, as well as Shmi Skywalker, Padmé (Amidala) Naberrie, in her peasant disguise. And in Rogue One: A Star Wars Story Galen Erso wears puttee’s with his farmer outfit. Own Lars also wears puttees in the end of Revenge of the Sith.

According to Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy, Luke’s puttees or leg wrappings are made out of soft suede. and unlike WWI puttees, Luke’s leg wraps do not appear to be held in place by a ribbon tape, instead double sided adhesive tape may have been used.

Original Trilogy:

Luke Puttees ANH
(ANH: Luke Tatooine Farmer: Luke’s Putees) (Images From The Padawans Guide)
Luke Puttees Boots
(ANH: Luke Puttees) (Images From: Stat Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
Luke Puttees
(ANH: Luke Tatooine Farmer: Luke’s Putees) (Images From: Cap-That.com)

Prequel Trilogy:

Padme puttees TPM
(TPM: Padmé Peasant Disguise Puttees/Leg Wrappings) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)
Anakin Puttees
(TPM: Anakin Puttees) (Images From: Cap-That.com)
starwarsIII_9075
(ROTS: Own Lars Moisture Farmer: Puttees) (Images From: Cap-That.com)

New EU:

Luke in the New Expanded Universe movies, The Force Awakens, wears what appear to be short puttees. Short puttees typically go around the ankle, Luke’s appear to go a little higher then short puttees usually go, but they are not full length or long puttees.

Luke puttees TFA
(TFA: Luke Skywalker Short Puttees) (Images From: Google Images)
Galen Erso Puttees RO
(RO:ASWS: Galen Erso: Farmer Outfit: Puttees) (Image From: Google Images)

What Are Puttees:

Puttees are a wrapping around the lower legs that became very common for militaries to wear at the turn of the nineteenth century. There are two kinds of puttees, long (that wrapped all the way up from the ankle to the knee) and short puttees (that only wrapped around the ankle and a little up the calf.) The long Puttees that were worn during the turn of the nineteenth century were roughly 3 ½” to 4” in width and around 9 ft. long. Puttees help keep the elements out of boots while also protecting and supporting legs.

How To Wrap Puttees:

 

Images:

The Last Command: Leia’s Flame Vest

The Heir To The Empire or Thrawn Trilogy was turned into a comic adaptation in the 1990’s. In the The Last Command, the 3rd part of that comic adaptation, Leia appears in a vest outfit very similar to her Bespin outfit from The Empire Strikes Back. I’m naming this outfit from the comics Leia’s Flame Vest outfit, because it has similarities to both Leia’s Bespin vest outfit and that coloration of Padme’s Flame handmaiden outfit from The Phantom Menace.

TLC8

(The Last Command: Leia’s Flame Vest)

Translating Cartoon To Reality:

When translating an outfit from drawn image to reality it is important to look at it as not a direct translation. A direct copy will end up looking cartnoonish, and if that is not the intention for the outfit then it will not have the desired effect. Keeping an eye towards proportion will help avoid a cartoonish look, however, this also requires interpretation about proportions comic characters are not proportional to real humans. That said the comic still provides good guide lines for how the end product should turn out.

It is also important to note that when a outfit is being rendered in the drawn medium that both highlights and low lights are used to give definition to the character. (Especially in clothing that is black in color, since it would be very hard to show any kind of definition in black colored cloths without them.) However, these high and low lights are not meant to represent the kind of fabric the outfit is made out of.

When translating an outfit decisions about where seems go, and specific details have to be made without much help from the source images as often they are not a detail that is shown. However, with this particular outfit, since it is so close in design to Leia’s Bespin Vest outfit using the details from that outfit for Leia’s Flame Vest would work well.

Fabric:

The Bespin outfit the Leia wears in TESB is made out of Crepe de Chine silk, it seems likely that this outfit too would be made out of a similar fabric. Avoiding shiny fabrics is a good idea, shiny fabrics are rarely used in Star Wars.

It is also important to note that when a outfit is being rendered in the drawn medium that both highlights and low lights are used to give definition to the character. (Especially in clothing that is black in color, since it would be very hard to show any kind of definition in black colored cloths without them.) However, these high and low lights are not meant to represent the kind of fabric the outfit is made out of.

Vest:

Vest Collar & Yoke:

TLC3 Vest Collar 2

(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest: Collar Is Red)

Similarity to Leia’s Bespin vest, the collar on Leia’s Flame Vest is a semi Mandarin collar, it seems to be fairly blunt in some of the pictures, however, the more detailed pictures suggest that the collar has a slight curing at the very ends. Leia’s vest collar dose not come up past her jaw, instead stopped half way up her neck, similar in proportion to Leia’s Bespin vest collar. The collar on Leia’s Flame Vest is a deep red color.

TLC6 Manderin Collar 2

(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest: Collar)

Leia Vest Inspired

(TESB: Bespin Leia Vest Collar & Yoke)

The Yoke of Leia’s Flame Vest is burnt sunset yellow, the the yoke is similar is proportion and construction to Leia’s Bespin Vest. The soft diamond shape appears in the front and back of  the yoke on Leia’s vest is the same in both Leia’s Flame and Bespin Vests.

TLC1 Vest Level With Belt

Vest Body:

The body of the Flame Vest is deep red, and the construction appears like the Bespin vest. The red fabric is pleated or gathered which allows for a fuller skirt to the vest, see the pink arrows for the gathering. It’s likely pleated like the Bespin vest.

TLC1 Vest Pleets

The arm howl for the vest ends roughly around the top of the elbow, the arm opening appears to be oval or circular. Like with Leia’s Bespin Vest, the vest likely falls to around Leia’s ankles.

TLC1 Vest Arm Level With BeltTLC3 Sleeve Arm Vest

Dress:

The Color of the dress Leia wears under the Flame Vest seems to be char coal grey

Neck:

TLC2 Boat Neck Black DressThe neckline for the dress that Leia wears with the Flame Vest has a boat neckline,  

Sleeves:

TLC3 Sleeve LengthThe sleeves of the dress are strait sleeves, with a cropped length, they are longer then 3/4, however, they are not full length sleeves.

Dress Body:

TLC3 Pleeted SkirtThe skirt of Leia’s dress is sleeted or gathered, the dress falls most likely to her ankles, the dress also appears to have an A line or slightly wide skirt. It appears that Leia is wearing a fabric covered leather diamond shaped belt similar to her Bespin belt. However, it also appears that the waistline for this dress is a V shape where the gathered skirt it attacked, the bodice appearing to be fitted similarly to the Bespin tunic.

TLC5 Belt or Bodice

Hair:

Leia’s hairstyle that she wears with her flame vest is simple, and almost a combination between Hoth Leia hair and Bespin Leia hair. her hair has no part and instead is pulled back, a crown braid runs over the top of her head and the rest of her hair is left to hand down in a soft looping bubble that just touches her shoulders.

TLC2 No Part HairTLC3 Hair Shoulder LengthTLC2 Side Coyals Hair

Inspirations & Similarities:

Clearly Leia’s Flame Vest is inspired by Leia’s Bespin outfit, however, there are also some similarities to some of Padmé’s costumes that are featured in the prequels. These comics came out before the Prequel Trilogy so the similarities to this outfit from the Prequel’s outfits is more coincidental. However, it also attests to the fact that the artist had an eye for what would be appropriate for Star Wars fashion.

Leia Hair Inspiration 3

(ROTS: Padmé’s Purple Senate Hairstyle) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)

 The Hairstyles that Leia wears with her Flame Vest Outfit, has a similar back to the lower half of Padmé’s Purple Senate Outfit from ROTS. The looped over bottom part of the hairstyle has a similar shape and volume.

Flame Vets Inpiration
(TPM: Padmé Flame Handmaiden)

The similarity in color patterns between the flame handmaiden outfit from TPM and Leia’s Vest is why I’ve named it Leia’s Flame Vest. The deep red color of the body of the vest is similar to that of the under-sleeves sleeves and hip sash on the flame handmaiden outfit. the yellow skirt of the flame handmaiden outfit also is similare in color to Leia’s flame vest, through in this picture the yellow is a darker shade on Leia’s vest then the skirt of the TPM dress.

Insparations Vest
(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest Collar & Yoke Similar to Leia’s Bespin Vest)

Leia’s Flame Vest, is very similar to the Bespin Vest she wears in The Empire Strikes Back. The collar and yoke are similar in construction, as well as shape and proportion.

Images From:

 

 

Star Wars: Blood Stripes

Blood Stripes appear in several Star Wars costumes (blood strips are the different colored stripes that go down the sides of paints.) The stripes appear in all of Han Solo’s costumes, which is likely why in the Legends EU, they are called Corellian Blood Stripes.

han blood stipe rotj
(ROTJ: Han Solo: Blood Stripes On Pants) (Images From: Cap-That.Com)

However, blood stripes also appear on Leia’s Commando outfit in (ROTJ), Luke’s end metal ceremony pants in (ANH) and also in the battle handmaiden outfit that Padmé as well as her handmaidens wears in (TPM).

leia blood stripe
(ROTJ: Leia’s Commando Pants: Blood Stripe) (Images From: Cap-That.com)
luke end anh
(ANH: Luke End Ceremony: Pants Blood Stripe) (Image From: Link Here, this is the only image I could find of Luke’s end ceremony pants)
handmaiden blood stripe
(TPM: Handmaiden: Blood Stripes) (Images From: Cap-That.com)

Typically blood stripes are made out of one continuous piece of fabric; this is how the stripes on Leia’s commando pants are done. However, Han’s stripes are done differently, instead of being a single stripe of fabric; Han’s stripes are actually embroidered in a dashed line.

han blood strip PadGui esb
(ROTJ?: Han Solo: Blood Stripes) (Images From: The Padawan’s Guide)

Star Wars Costumes That Feature Blood Stripes:

Prequel Trilogy: Padmé Curls

Padmé has many hair styles thrghout the Prequel Trilogy, often when Padmé’s hair isn’t in an official style she wears it hair in curls. Padmé’s curls are usually medium to small size curls that fall in soft romantic rings, it is also important to note that Padmé also has different kinds of curl patterns depending on the outfit. Studying reference images helps to get an idea of what kind of curl patterns are needed. Like with all costuming, study the reference images for proportion, and adjust to fit your own unique features from there is one of the best places to start.

See larger size images on the DIY Galaxy Tumblr:

(Attack of the Clones)

 

 

 

 

(Revenge of the Sith)

 

 

 

 

How To Curl Hair:

There are a lot of different method to curling hair, the main two being heat and heartless curls. If you have naturally curly hair you may want to change your curl pattern, (the natural way your hair curls,) to one more similar to Padmé.

Helpful Tips:

Before curling your hair some tips that can help, use a product in your hair such as, moose, curling serum, or hair spray. Also consider using hairspray on the curls after the curls are finished forming.

When curling hair, wrap the curl on the wand or the roller in the opposite direction every other curl, (curl 1 away from the face, curl 2 towards the face ext.) This helps prevent the curls from tangling together and helps keep them more defined as separate curls.

When using a heat tool using a heat protective product can help keep the heat tool from damaging your hair.

Curling Wand/Heat Curls:

Heatless Curls:

Wig Caps:

Images From: The Padawans Guide & Cap-That.com

Twi’lek’s: Part 6: Orn Free Taa

Twi’lek’s are some of the oldest and best loved aliens in Star Wars; they are also some of the most varied in representation within the movies and TV shows. This post is part of a series braking down Twi’lek’s from the movies and TV shows.

What Is Orn Free Taa?:

Compared to all other Twi’lek’s, whether for the Original Trilogy, Prequel Trilogy, or in any of the other Star Wars media, Orn Free Taa is drastically different then all the others. 

Fingers:

Where all other Twi’leks from both the original and prequel trilogies, as well as all other Star Wars media, have five fingers. Orn Free Taa has three, this is never explained as to way. Below is a picture of Orn Free Taa next to Cham Syndulla, it is very clear that Cham, a typical male Twi’lek, had four fingers and a thumb and Orn Free Taa has three and a thumb.

Fingers clone-wars1x21
(SWTCW:S1:Ep 21: Orn Free Taa Three Fingers)

Lekku:

Where all other Twi’lek’s represented in Star Wars media have two Lekku, Orn Fee Taa has four; two that hang on either side of his face and over his shoulders, and two that hang down his back like regular Lekku.

Lekku 1
(SWTCW: S1:Ep22: Orn Free Taa Four Lekku)

Ears:

Orn free Taa has humanoid ears like other male Twi;leks, however, his are much smaller then any of the other male Twi’lek’s, strangely small in fact. This goes for his live action movie as well as the cartoon.

clone-wars1x22_1155 ears free taa
(SWTCW:S1:Ep22: Orn Free Taa Ears Are Smaller The Normal)
orn free taa ears
(Orn Free Taa: Small Ears) (Image From: Unknown)

Similarities To Other Twi’lek’s:

Orn Fee Taa has pointed teeth, yellow eyes, regular body color and skin patterning, he also has pointed humanoid ears, however, as mentioned above, they are much smaller then other Twi’lek’s ears.

So why these differences? A theory could be just about anything, elective surgery, a terrible accident, born with a birth defect? We may never know, whatever the story is, it has got to be interesting.

The Most likely reason for Orn Free Taa looking this way and the differences from other Twi’lek’s is what they say about the character. All costumes and character desinges tell us something about them, Orn Free Traa is no exception. The idea behind his character is excess, he has excess in everything about him, even down to having twice as many Lekku.

(Send a link to any fan fictions about why Orn Free Taa does not look like other Twi’lek’s by leaving a comment on this post with a link or a message on the DIY Galaxy Tumblr. Love to see them 🙂 )

Twi’lek’s: Part 5: Hats & Headgear

Hats and Headgear:

Females:

Most female Twi’lek’s wear a little hat like headgear or headdress, this is most likely due to the practical need of hide hairlines and Lekku seems.

These hats seem to be only worn by the female Twi’lek’s and have several popular variations, but they almost universally cover the ears, hairline, including the back of the head, and side of the head. Often times they have spaces for the ear-cones to show through.

ear4
(AOTC: Senate Twi’lek’s: Hat’s Leave Space For Ear-Cones)

Concept art for Oola, shows the inspiration of the Twi’lek hats, Oola’s human design has a hat that covers much less of the head. A gag was included originally as well in the concept design, and the ear-cons appear to have originally been a part of the headdress. (Images By: DIY The Galaxy of Star Wars) (Images From: The Art of Return of the Jedi: Star Wars Book)

 

Sometimes these hats have chin straps, such as Oola, Hera and Aayla’s.

 

Some of these hats cover the cheeks with little flaps

 

While others don’t cover hem at all.

 

Many of the hat’s feature medallions on the forehead.

 

Some of the hats cover the ear-cones, such as Oola and Hera and the child Twi’lek, they can sometimes be decorative when covering the ear-cones.

 

These hats can be completely decorative such as those of senate Twi’lek’s, or only have decorative parts, such as Oola’s.

 

Some of these hats come in multi colors,

Twi'lek hat 30

while others come in brown which seems to be a popular color,

 

Or, like Hera and Numa, have different colors and patterns on their hats and they also cover more of the Lekku.

 

In combination with these hats some Twi’lek’s wear their Lekku wrapped in strips of fabric or leather or with a sleeve over them. These can be done only a little or almost all over the Lekku, or not done at all.

 

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Males:

Males typically don’t wear hats, a few wear helmet like hat,

 

For the most part the males only form of decoration or headgear is wrapping their Lekku.

 

Some don’t wear any form of Lekku decoration at all.

 

Some Images from Cap-That.com