Aesthetic Influences Part-4: The Clone Wars: Duchess Satine Kryze

Queen_Elizabeth_I_('The_Ditchley_portrait')_by_Marcus_Gheeraerts_the_Youngerknbopen-uri20150608-27674-yzeq0c_8000e89d

The pearls that Queen Elizabeth I wears in her hair are similar to the placement to the white shell or flower like hair decor that Satine wears. The collar is also similar, the large collar that extends over and around her face and head as well as extending over the top head and onto the for head. Satine’s entire aesthetic is recalls Queen Elizabeth I in many ways.

The Phantom Menace: Queen Amidala Royal Makeup: Part – 2

Queen Amidala, and other queens of Naboo, have some very recognizable makeup, this post is about Queen Amidala’s makeup, which, while having similar makeup, other Queen’s of Neboo have slightly different makeup and will not be featured in this Amidala specific post. 

These are good videos the show the application technique for the Queen Amidala makeup.

(Note: That the makeup technique for applying is helpful, however, it it not movie accurate.)

(Note: These may also help with the application of makeup for other Queens from Naboo, however, other Queens of Naboo’s royal makeup is not the same as Amidala’s even though it is similar so there will be some differences.)

 

Makeup Application To Avoid For Movie Accurate Makeup:

  • Winged Eyeliner
  • Eye Shadow (of any kind, other then white for setting powder)
  • Tight Lining Or Lining The Water Line
  • Colors Other Then White For The Setting Powder
    • (Note: using setting powder other then true no color or if you can’t get that white will change the color of the cream base)
  • Forgetting To Use Red Setting Powder For The Lips And Dots, which can result in smearing
  • Colors Other Than White For The Base
    • (Note: the makeup used in the movie was a porciline white, it is a warmer softer white not as harsh as clown white.)
    • (When its suggest that colors other then white should not be used, this means that even the lightest shade of regular foundation is not going to be light enough for Queen Amidala’s face base makeup, the makeup used in the film was a specific movie foundation.)
amidala makeup
(TPM: Queen Amidala: Royal Naboo Makeup Chart) (Images From: Fit For A Queen)

A Transcript Of The Queen Amidala’s Makeup Chart Is Below:

(Note: Underlined words are words that can not be clearly deciphered)

PORCELAIN ‘WHITE’  BASE COLOUR: RCMA IVORY. CHANNEL 01 EAVB, PONDER LUMERE PRESSE

SCULPT EYES, BROWS: (BROWN/BLACK)

EYE LINER (BROWN/BLACK) + MASCARA: GIVENCHY PRIZM TOME

*PILLAR BOX* OR BRIGHT RED

DOTS EITHER SIDE OF CHEEKS

‘LIKE’ LIP PEN

+ SAME COLOUR ON TOP LIP

+ SEMI-CIRCLE ON LOWER LIP.

NARS FIRE DOWN BELOW.

LANCOME EW?VCIL BLACK MAICAEA? OR MAICACA

WHITE BASE COLOUR

THE RESULT OF THIS MAKE UP GIVER A JAMNESE ‘KISUKI’ EFFERT, SO MUST BE EXECUTED WITH BOLDNESS FOR MAXIMUM EFFECT,

Makeup Suggestions:

  • When applying Queen Amidala makeup remember to color in the eyebrows and pay attention to the shape that is seen in the movie.
  • Use brown/black instead of true black may help keep the dark color without having a harsh line. 
  • RCMA has a no color powder that may be helpful for setting the base face makeup without changing the color and without using a white powder which may also change the color a little.

Makeup:

The Phantom Menace: Queen Amidala Royal Makeup Part – 1

Queen Amidala’s Royal Naboo Makeup, though similar to other queens of Naboo, is unique to her. This is a breakdown of the approximation of Amidala’s makeup placement and techniques. We will be looking at both Padme and Sabe wearing the makeup because Sabe is wearing the Amidala makeup as her decoy. Colors and brands will be covered more in part – 2 of this post.

Breakdown:

Face Base:

Queen Amidala’s white face makeup is cream makeup base from RCMA. This was made special for the Star Wars movies by the company. An important note about this makeup is that though it is called Porcelain, other makeup’s with that name are not the same shade. In this case it means that it is a specific shade of white with a warm under tone to it which was special made for the Star Wars’s movies. The white base covers the entire face and is lightly applied over the ears and down the neck. Note that the white base is blended more with the skin on the ears and neck so make a less harsh white color.

 

Eyes & Eyebrows:

the royal Amidala makeup has a eyeliner and masquara as well, both are applied lightly, the liner applied above and blew the lashes, not at all on the water lines. The liner is also slightly smudgy so it is not a harsh line.

amidala makeup eyeliner 1
(Amidala eyeliner lightly applied)
liner 3
(Sabe eyeliner lightly applied)

The eyebrows are filled in too lightly, the brow is filled in naturally, not over drawn, but simply to make a darker more dramatic line.

brows 1
(Amidala eyebrows filled in, natural shape)

The image of Amidala in the makeup chair is very nice because it shows not only the application of the brow liner, but also shows the lid clearly, though this is in the middle of the makeup so we cannot know for sure, it is a good bet that only setting powder is applied to the lids, no real color. We do think that maybe it’s a white or pearl white possibly, however, a no color setting powder would also do very well.

makeup chair.jpg 2
(Amidala in makeup chair, filling in eyebrows)

Cheek Dots:

The cheek dots are the same color as the lips, which in this case is Nars Fire Down Red.

amidala makeup 1
(Amidala cheek dots, center lines up with outer edge of eye ring)
amidala makeup 5
(Amidala cheek dots, center lines up with outer edge of eye ring)

Looking at the placement of the cheek dots we can see that the center of the dots lines up roughly under the outer edge of the iris ring.

amidala makeup 9
(Outer edge of cheek dot lines up with outer corner of eye)
amidala makeup 17
(Outer edge of cheek dot lines up with outer corner of eye)

The outer edge of the cheek dots line up roughly with the outer corner of the eye.

amidala makeup 2
(Center of cheek dots line up with center tip of nose)

The cheek dots center are roughly in line with the tip of Padme’s nose, as you can see in the images below for both Padme and Sabe the lines below and above the dots are more or less in line with the tip of their noses. amidala makeup 11

amidala makeup 16

Lips:

The lips are the same color as the cheek dots, the top lip in filled in naturally with no over drawing. the bottom lip is filled in white with the face base with a small rectangle of the red lip color in the center of the lip. This lower stripe of lip color is squared at the bottom, though some pictures show a slightly more pointed angle to it bottom lip, the majority of the images show it to be square. This lower lip stripe is also roughly the width of the philtrum.

amidala makeup lip3amidala makeup lip 4

Images From:

Aesthetic Influences Part-2: Star Wars: Fortuny Pleating

Mock-Fortuny pleating is featured in several Star Wars Costumes, all of them from Naboo. It seems to be a Naboo easthetic in the Galaxy Far Far Away. Unfortunately Fortuny Pleating is a lost wonder of the fashion world, in a nutshell the means to create the pleating died with Mariano Fortuny the man who invented it and as of yet has not fully been recovered. The Padawan’s Guide has already touched on the similarities between many of the Naboo clothing and Fortuny Pleating.

The Fortuny Dresses are sometimes refereed to as The Delphos Gown, and where very created to be a house dress and later a tea gown worn by wealthy woman at the turn of the 19th’s century. The wonderful thing about these original gowns is that they must be twisted into a small ball for storage, which means they take up very little room.

In Star Wars, Padme and her Handmaidens wear gowns with a similar pleating. Though it is not stated anywhere we have found yet that this was that the Delphos Gowns where an influence on the Naboo aesthetic, the light silks and unique pleating of the gowns makes a good case that they where.

Fortuny Pleating Replica loop

ESB: Leia’s Hoth Crown Braids

Front:

Leia’s Hoth crown braid has no part, the hair is brushed back from the front of the face.

hoth leia no part
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: No Part)

Back:

The back of Leia’s Hoth drown braid has no part, this is the tricky part, but there is no back parting to the hair, this is likely because the braids are a hair piece that is pinned on and not an actually crown braid. More on this later.

hoth leia no back part 2
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: No Part)

Side:

Leia’s Hoth crown braid has a side curl in-front of the ears where the side burns are, these are small and not very thick, they also do not go lower then the jaw line generally.

hoth leia side curel 2
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Side Curl)
hoth leia side curel
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Side Curl)

Crown Braids:

Leia’s Hoth crown braids are actually two braids, or if you like, one very, very long braid that goes over the top of her head. however, when the braid is wrapped around her head it forms two rows of braids. On the back of Leia’s head the two rows are very clear and separate. See pink and green marking them. Over the top of Leia’s head the narrower part of the braids are crossed over each other to look like one thick braid. Where as the back of Leia’s braids are positioned to look like a double braid.

hoth leia two braids 2
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Double Braid)
hoth leia two braids
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Double Braid)
hoth leia two braids 3
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Double Braid)
hoth leia two braids 6
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Double Braids)

Hidden Little Bun:

Leia’s real hair is short and appears to be pulled back into a small bun at the base of her neck. This bun is flat and hidden beneath the double row of braids that cross over the back of her head. This is why there is no back part to Leia’s hair, the braids are a hair piece and not a real crown braid so there is no need for there to be a part in the hair.

Leia's Hoth Bun 3
(Behind the Scenes Star Wars 40th Anniversary: Time 1:13:09 Video) (ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Small Bun)
Leia's Hoth Bun 4
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Small Bun)

Position:

Leia’s braid is positioned further back on her head and behind the ears, notice the soft C shape that the braids back curving over the back of her head.

hoth leia position
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: Position Behind Ears and Back From Front Of Forehead)
hoth leia C curve
(ESB: Leia Hoth Hair: C shaped curve of braids positioning)

 

These behind the scene photos show Leia with the braids hanging loose and though it hard to see it dose appears that the braids one long braid that is pinned on the top of her head and wrapped around the sides.  

Links:

Things You’ll Need: