Aesthetic Influences Part-1: Revenge of the Sith: Padme Green Velvet Gown

Star Wars has many known and unknown inspirations and influences, this series will be focusing on similarities, possible influences and possible inspiration that helped shape the look of the Galaxy. Silhouettes, fabrics, and color palette among many, many other factors will all be looked at and explored.

Though there is no evidence we have come across to support this as fact, nevertheless, it is undeniable that Padme’s Green Velvet Gown that she wears in Revenge of the Sith shares many similarities to the The Arnolfini Portrait. Because of of these similarities we are looking at the possibility of this painting being the partial inspiration for the esthetic of Padme Green Velvet Robe.

 

The similarities between the gowns can be seen in

  • the color, dark greens,
  • the weight of the fabric, the paintings is a heavy wool and Padme’s is a heavy velvet.
  • long sleeves,
  • special linings, the Portraits is fur, Padme’s is patterned and purple
  • purple belts, though it is a little harder to tell if the paintings belt is purple for sure, never the less the belt placement is the same
  • a hood (Padme) and hood silhouette to the veil (Mrs. Arnolfini).
  • Special decorations on the sleeves,
  • long flowing gown that comes out from under the bust.

According to A Stitch In Time Episode 2, for a very long time people believed that the woman in the Arnolfini Portrait was pregnant. Though this is not the case, it is very easy to see why that would be assumed, she dose look pregnant, without a particular knowledge of the fashion and time period it is essay to assume. The woman in the painting has a silhouette that is similar to Padme’s, who is pregnant.

This is one of the few garments that we think is a spastic influence on a spastic dress instead of simply sharing a more common aesthetic.

Images From:

The Last Command: Leia’s Flame Vest

The Heir To The Empire or Thrawn Trilogy was turned into a comic adaptation in the 1990’s. In the The Last Command, the 3rd part of that comic adaptation, Leia appears in a vest outfit very similar to her Bespin outfit from The Empire Strikes Back. I’m naming this outfit from the comics Leia’s Flame Vest outfit, because it has similarities to both Leia’s Bespin vest outfit and that coloration of Padme’s Flame handmaiden outfit from The Phantom Menace.

TLC8

(The Last Command: Leia’s Flame Vest)

Translating Cartoon To Reality:

When translating an outfit from drawn image to reality it is important to look at it as not a direct translation. A direct copy will end up looking cartnoonish, and if that is not the intention for the outfit then it will not have the desired effect. Keeping an eye towards proportion will help avoid a cartoonish look, however, this also requires interpretation about proportions comic characters are not proportional to real humans. That said the comic still provides good guide lines for how the end product should turn out.

It is also important to note that when a outfit is being rendered in the drawn medium that both highlights and low lights are used to give definition to the character. (Especially in clothing that is black in color, since it would be very hard to show any kind of definition in black colored cloths without them.) However, these high and low lights are not meant to represent the kind of fabric the outfit is made out of.

When translating an outfit decisions about where seems go, and specific details have to be made without much help from the source images as often they are not a detail that is shown. However, with this particular outfit, since it is so close in design to Leia’s Bespin Vest outfit using the details from that outfit for Leia’s Flame Vest would work well.

Fabric:

The Bespin outfit the Leia wears in TESB is made out of Crepe de Chine silk, it seems likely that this outfit too would be made out of a similar fabric. Avoiding shiny fabrics is a good idea, shiny fabrics are rarely used in Star Wars.

It is also important to note that when a outfit is being rendered in the drawn medium that both highlights and low lights are used to give definition to the character. (Especially in clothing that is black in color, since it would be very hard to show any kind of definition in black colored cloths without them.) However, these high and low lights are not meant to represent the kind of fabric the outfit is made out of.

Vest:

Vest Collar & Yoke:

TLC3 Vest Collar 2

(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest: Collar Is Red)

Similarity to Leia’s Bespin vest, the collar on Leia’s Flame Vest is a semi Mandarin collar, it seems to be fairly blunt in some of the pictures, however, the more detailed pictures suggest that the collar has a slight curing at the very ends. Leia’s vest collar dose not come up past her jaw, instead stopped half way up her neck, similar in proportion to Leia’s Bespin vest collar. The collar on Leia’s Flame Vest is a deep red color.

TLC6 Manderin Collar 2

(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest: Collar)

Leia Vest Inspired

(TESB: Bespin Leia Vest Collar & Yoke)

The Yoke of Leia’s Flame Vest is burnt sunset yellow, the the yoke is similar is proportion and construction to Leia’s Bespin Vest. The soft diamond shape appears in the front and back of  the yoke on Leia’s vest is the same in both Leia’s Flame and Bespin Vests.

TLC1 Vest Level With Belt

Vest Body:

The body of the Flame Vest is deep red, and the construction appears like the Bespin vest. The red fabric is pleated or gathered which allows for a fuller skirt to the vest, see the pink arrows for the gathering. It’s likely pleated like the Bespin vest.

TLC1 Vest Pleets

The arm howl for the vest ends roughly around the top of the elbow, the arm opening appears to be oval or circular. Like with Leia’s Bespin Vest, the vest likely falls to around Leia’s ankles.

TLC1 Vest Arm Level With BeltTLC3 Sleeve Arm Vest

Dress:

The Color of the dress Leia wears under the Flame Vest seems to be char coal grey

Neck:

TLC2 Boat Neck Black DressThe neckline for the dress that Leia wears with the Flame Vest has a boat neckline,  

Sleeves:

TLC3 Sleeve LengthThe sleeves of the dress are strait sleeves, with a cropped length, they are longer then 3/4, however, they are not full length sleeves.

Dress Body:

TLC3 Pleeted SkirtThe skirt of Leia’s dress is sleeted or gathered, the dress falls most likely to her ankles, the dress also appears to have an A line or slightly wide skirt. It appears that Leia is wearing a fabric covered leather diamond shaped belt similar to her Bespin belt. However, it also appears that the waistline for this dress is a V shape where the gathered skirt it attacked, the bodice appearing to be fitted similarly to the Bespin tunic.

TLC5 Belt or Bodice

Hair:

Leia’s hairstyle that she wears with her flame vest is simple, and almost a combination between Hoth Leia hair and Bespin Leia hair. her hair has no part and instead is pulled back, a crown braid runs over the top of her head and the rest of her hair is left to hand down in a soft looping bubble that just touches her shoulders.

TLC2 No Part HairTLC3 Hair Shoulder LengthTLC2 Side Coyals Hair

Inspirations & Similarities:

Clearly Leia’s Flame Vest is inspired by Leia’s Bespin outfit, however, there are also some similarities to some of Padmé’s costumes that are featured in the prequels. These comics came out before the Prequel Trilogy so the similarities to this outfit from the Prequel’s outfits is more coincidental. However, it also attests to the fact that the artist had an eye for what would be appropriate for Star Wars fashion.

Leia Hair Inspiration 3

(ROTS: Padmé’s Purple Senate Hairstyle) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)

 The Hairstyles that Leia wears with her Flame Vest Outfit, has a similar back to the lower half of Padmé’s Purple Senate Outfit from ROTS. The looped over bottom part of the hairstyle has a similar shape and volume.

Flame Vets Inpiration
(TPM: Padmé Flame Handmaiden)

The similarity in color patterns between the flame handmaiden outfit from TPM and Leia’s Vest is why I’ve named it Leia’s Flame Vest. The deep red color of the body of the vest is similar to that of the under-sleeves sleeves and hip sash on the flame handmaiden outfit. the yellow skirt of the flame handmaiden outfit also is similare in color to Leia’s flame vest, through in this picture the yellow is a darker shade on Leia’s vest then the skirt of the TPM dress.

Insparations Vest
(TLC: Leia’s Flame Vest Collar & Yoke Similar to Leia’s Bespin Vest)

Leia’s Flame Vest, is very similar to the Bespin Vest she wears in The Empire Strikes Back. The collar and yoke are similar in construction, as well as shape and proportion.

Images From:

 

 

Legends EU: Heir To The Empire & Dark Force Rising: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest

The Heir To The Empire, or Thrawn Trilogy was turned into a comic adaptation in the 1990’s. In both the 1st part Heir to the Empire and the 2nd part Dark Force Rising, Leia wears a yellow vest and black shirt and pants combination. She notibly wears this outfit when visiting the Bimm’s on Bimmisaari (who notably wear yellow as part of their culture). Thus it has been named the Yellow Bimm Vest, because of this reference to Bimm’s in Heir to the Empire book.

DFR Cover
(HTTE & DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest)

Inspirations:

Looking at Luke’s Black Vest outfits that he wears in the beginning of Return of the Jedi while at Jabba’s palace is would seem that his outfit is the inspiration for Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest in the comic. The comics where drawn by three different artists, and the artists for part 1 had a very different style of art then the 2nd parts. Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest is the most strongly similar to Luke’s black Vest outfit from ROTJ, in the first Volume Heir To The Empire. (Note: that they fist volume does not have consistent representation of the costume). For the purposes of this break down most of the images will be from volume 2 Dark Force Rising as they are more consistent in their depiction and simpler to breakdown.

Luke and leia Vest Insparation
(HTTE & DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Inspiration From Luke’s Black Vest Outfit At Jobba’s Palace ROTJ)
Padme Vest Sleeves Inperation Leia
(TPM & DFR: Similar Arm Howls)

Though The Phantome Menace did not come out until after the comics where released, however, there is some similarities in the width and shape of the arms howls of Padmé’s Pilot Disguise Vest, as well as the depth of the fabric that sits on the should.

Comic & Breakdown Design:

Because the comics had three different artists, Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest goes through several variations in look. For the purposes of consistency this post is choosing to base the breakdown (for the most part) on the Dark Force Rising comics, which are the most consistently represented and detailed of the three comics for this outfit. This is why the look of the outfit changes from comic to comic and also why the outfit in the Heir To The Empire comics look more similar to Luke’s Black Taber Vest from Return Of The Jedi. Also why Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest in Dark Force Rising looks more similar to Padmé’s Pilot Disguise Vest from The Phantom Menace.

Yellow Bimm Vest:

Fit:

(Note: that Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest is fitted but not skin tight, there is enough slack in the fabric to show that it’s comfortably loose while still smooth.)

Vest Sleeves:

DFR3 Double Sleeve Fold 2
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Double Folded Sleeve)

Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest has folded double sleeve, the sleeve appears to be one large piece that then has part of it folded or tucked under  to create the double sleeve. Similar to (but not exactly like) how Obi-Wan’s Jedi tunic sleeves are tucked up.  

HTTE1 Double Sleeve 3
(HTTE: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Double Sleeve)
DFR3 Double Sleeve Seem 2
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Shoulder Seem)

There is a strait seem that runs along Leia’s shoulder, for construction of this vest side seems are likely.

DFR14 Sleeve Opening Shape
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Arm ‘V’ Shaped Howl)

The arm howl for Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest is a inverted teardrop in the picture which translates to ‘V’ shaped arm howl opening. The arm howl is a deep one that goes all the way down to fall roughly in line with under Leia’s bust. And though it can not be seen in this picture falls roughly in line with the point of the deep V neck of the vest.

DFR14 Sleeve Opening Length
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Arm Howl)

Vest Neck:

DFR1.5 Vest Neck
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Neckline, Deep V Neck)

Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest has a deep ‘V’ neckline, the ‘V’ neck width is not much wider the Leia’s neck.

DFR Vest Neck Bust
(Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Deep V Neck, Depth Goes Down To Under Leia’s Bust)

The deep ‘V’ neckline of Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest goes down to just under her bust line where the point ends.

Vest Body:

DFR Tunic leangth 2
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Vest Is Tunic Length)

The length of the Yellow Bimm Vest comes down to tunic length, the vests lower hem ends roughly around the point where Leia’s leg meets her hip.

DFR Side Seem Vest
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Side Seem)

There is a side seem on Leia’s Vest, likely a slightly curved seem to allow for her pregnancy. Though it’s hard to tell, for the construction of the yellow vest a back seem with an invisible zipper seems likely.

DFR3 Center Back Seem
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Back Seem)

Shirt:

DFR1 Turtel Neck
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Turtle Neck)

The shirt that Leia wears under her Yellow Vest is a black turtle neck, (it, however, does not have a folded over collar so it’s similar to a mock turtle neck , however, it comes up higher more to the height of an actual turtle neck.) The shirt seems to be a fitted shirt as there is no bulk viable under the Yellow vest, and likely make out of the same fabric as the pants.

Sleeve Shirt Leia
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest :Undershirt Sleeves)

The sleeves of the undershirt that Leia wears are tight fitting and break at the wrist, sometimes Leia wears gloves of the same color with this shirt that over lap the sleeves, leaving no skin visible.

Pants:

DFR Pants
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Pants)

The pants Leia wears with her Yellow Vest, are close fitting pants of the same black color as the shirt. Likely made out of the same fabric as the shirt, because of the close fitting of the pants a fabric with some stretch would be a good idea. 

Boots:

DFR15 Leia Boots
(DFR: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Boots)

The boots that Leia wears with her Yellow Bimm Vest outfit, the boots are standard simple black riding boots. They appear to be unadorned and go up to the knee. 

Hairstyle & Hair Piece:

 

 

 

Leia’s hairstyle is a simple three strand or English braid, the braids ends roughly mid back or at the bottom of the shoulder blades. The hairpiece that Leia wears is inconstantly represented, however, the most common way in which it appears in two separate combs similar in idea to the way that Slave Leia’s hair pieces appear.

 

(Dark Force Rising: Leia’s Yellow Bimm Vest: Hair Piece)

The Hair piece appears to be two separate pieces connected at the base by a small piece to each other that rests over the braid. They attach on ether side of the head with two distinctive curling decorative parts both above as well as by the ears. The first curl comes down near where the sideburns are, there is a second scowling piece at the very stop of the hair piece. There also appears to be three lobs to the hair piece, ranging from large to small descending in size as they go back away from her ear.

Mara Jade: General Info

Maranjo
(Image From: Wookieepedia)

Mara Jade is a great character first introduced in the Star Wars trilogy, Heir to the Empire, written by Timothy Zhan. One of the few woman to populate the galaxy before the Prequels came out, Mara Jade becomes the wife of Luke Skywalker and mother of Ben Skywalker in the now Legends EU. Originally an agent for the Empire, Mara Jade later becomes one of the first new Jedi.

Mara Jade’s Black Jumpsuit Outfit that is her most recognizable look appear in the Dark Horse Comic adaptation of the Heir To The Empire, Thrown Trilogy. (Images From: Dark Force Rising Comics: Mara Jade: Black Jumpsuit)

Mara Jade Has Three Recognizable Outfits:

Other Mara Jade Resources:

A New Hope: Leia’s Political Gown

24
(Images From: Star Wars Fit For A Queen)

Concept:

(Images From: Star Wars Fit For A Queen)

 

 

leia concept
(Leia’s Political Dress Concept Art) (Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)

Materials:

Leia’s political dress is made out of crepe de chine (follow link to info), her belt is made out of white leather and the medallions on her belt are aluminum.

(Note: Leia’s political dress is also known as, classic Leia, princess of Alderaan Leia dress, Senate Leia and Leia’s ambassador dress).

Leia dress fabric
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
leia belt 2
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
leia belt 3
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)

Silk Crepe De Chine Fabric Information

“Silk crepe de chine, from the French “crepe of China”, is a famously versatile silk, possessing a very glossy luster and a subtle texture, as well as a surprisingly light weight and truly excellent drape. The fabric, slightly more textured than silk 4-ply woven crepe, is made with tightly twisted weft yarns, or filling, running in reverse directions from left to right. These twisted yarns produce both the crepe texture of the material and its flexible drape. Silk crepe de chine is probably the most durable of cultivated silks – those woven of single, reeled strands – and is found to be exceedingly even and uniform in texture. Silk crepe de chine is popular for bridal and formal evening wear, and also works well in blouses and men’s shirts. Also used in home décor, the fabric lends a light and luxurious feel to any project. Silk crepe de chine is also an exceptionally forgivable silk when it comes to sewing, as it takes thread well and will typically not fray overly when cut. Dry cleaning is the recommended method of care for this fabric”.

Dress Body:

The body of Leia’s political dress is very simple; the dress seems to be cut out on a ‘T’ pattern, the fabric being folded in half fully length ways and then again width ways.

Leia's Dress Pattern DIYTGOSW 2
(Image By: DIY THE GALAXY OF STAR WARS: Leia Dress Pattern: Based Off Of Pam’s Leia Pattern: Go Check It Out.)

Because of the way the fabric is folded before cutting there are only 2 seems one on ether sides. There is no front or back seems, there are also no shoulder seems and no seem on the top of the sleeves. There are really only 4 seems on Leia’s dress, the 2 side seems which are continuous up through the underside of the sleeves, 1 seem for the collar and the seem for the keyhole back opening.

leia side seem 2
(Leia’s Political Dress Side Seems & Seem On The Bottom Of The Sleeves) (Images from The Padawans Guide)

The side seems are left open from about the knee down, to allow for ease of movement, this split in the dress does no go any high then Leia’s knee, (roughly just below the knee cap).

leia split 2
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
leia split
(Leia’s Political Dress Split Is Knee High) (Images from The Padawans Guide)
dress length 2
(Leia’s Political Dress Split Is Knee High) (Images from The Padawans Guide)

Leia’s political dress is self lined, meaning that the same fabric that was used to make the dress is used to line it. Leia’s dress has the raw seams enclosed between the lining and the body of the dress.

The bottom hem of the dress comes down to break at the top of Leia’s foot and is a folded hem that is secured down with invisible stitching, possibly sewn by hand.

dress length 1
(Leia’s Political Dress Breaks At the Top Of Her Foot) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)
leia hem 2
(Leia’s Political Dress: Folded Hem) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)

The top of Leia’s dress is blouses and appears to have elastic ruching used to gather in the waist. (Sadly there are no pockets).

Leia roushing 7
(Leia’s Political Dress Waist Gathering) (Image From: Cap-That.com)

Neck:

Though different necklines where plaid around with in the concept art faze for Leia’s political dress, the approved design has a turtleneck collar (possibly more of a mock-turtleneck since it does not fold over). This turtleneck collar closed in the back with what appear to be hooks and eyes that are sewn on the inside of the collar so they are not visible from the outside.

leia collar
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
Leia Colar shape and height 6
(Leia’s Political Dress Turtleneck Collar) (Image From: Cap-That.com)
Leia Neck Closur 1
(Leia’s Political Dress Neck Closer) (Image From: Cap-That.com)

Back Opening:

Princess Leia’s political dress closes with a series of hooks and eyes closer at the neck, and a keyhole back opening. This opening is more or less a strait cut opening down the center back that goes no lower than mid shoulder blade.

keyhole2
(Leia’s Political Dress: Keyhole Back) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)

Hood:

Leia’s hood is made out of a single layer of crepe de chine (so it’s not lined), the hood comes down to roughly just below the top of Leia’s hips. The hood seems to be likely cut out on a trapezoid shape and gathered on the edges before being sewn under the collar.

leia side seem.jpg
(Leia’s Political Dress: Hood Length) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)
trapezoid hood pattern
(Trapezoid)

The hood is attached under the turtleneck collar and the hoods hem is a rolled hem which is stitched down by hand with an invisible stitch. The hood is also left open in the back and is not a closed hood, the fabric for the most part lays over the top of the head.

leia hood uner collar 2
(Leia’s Political Dress: Hood Is Attached Under Collar) (Image From: Cap-That.com)
leia hood hem
(Leia’s Political Dress: Hood Rolled Hem & Hand Sewn) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)
leia hood opening1.jpg
(Leia’s Political Dress: Hood Open In Back) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)

Sleeves:

Leia’s political dress has open wide cut sleeves, Leia’s sleeves at the widest point, the wrist, appear to be more than 14” long (Pam’s Costumes: suggests 14″ inches in length for the sleeves). The image below shows Leia’s hand at shoulder level and the sleeves drops down to roughly Leia’s waist. (Perspective in the image has to be taken into account when figuring out the proper length of the sleeve.)

Note: that for movies there are lots of the same costume made, and often times those used during action sequences will have shorter hems and less full skirts and sleeves. It is likely then that Leia’s dress will appear slightly different throughout the movie and promo stills.

leia sleeves lendth 2
(Leia’s Political Dress Sleeve Length) (Images From: The Padawans Guide)
leia sleeves lendth
(Leia’s Political Dress Sleeve Length) (Image From: Cap-That.com)

There are no shoulder seems or seems on the top of the sleeves, [some of the patterns that were released had raglan sleeves; however, this is not how the screen dress is constructed]. Since the dress is cut out on a ‘T’ pattern, the only seems that exists are on the underside of the sleeves where it’s the continuation of the single body seem on the side of the dress.

leia no seem
(Liea’s Political Dress: No Seem On Shoulder) (Image From: Cap-That.com)

Belt:

Leia’s political dress belt was made to have a medieval look, the belt itself is made out of leather with aluminum medallions. Leia’s belt also has a clear line of stitching around the entire border.

leia belt 2
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
leia belt 3
(Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
leia belt stiching
(Leia’s Political Dress: Belt Edge Stitching) (Image From: Cap-That.com)

There are 7 to 8 medallions depending on the belt (the belt worn in ANH has more medallions then the belt worn in ESB). There are 6 to 7 rectangular medallions and 1 center diamond medallion (though more rectangular medallions can be added as needed as long as there evenly spaced). The medallions are made out of aluminum and snaps are used to close the belt in the back. In some versions of the belt, such as the one worn in ANH, a medallion covers up the snap closure, however, the belt worn in ESB appears to only have 7 medallions, leaving the snaps uncovered. (This picture pattern below for the medallions is a rough pattern and may have to be adjusted for each individual Leia, figuring out proportions helps.)

(Follow Link To See: DIY The Galaxy of Star Wars’s Post On Materials For Making The Medallions.)

leia_anh_belt02
(Leia’s Political Dress: Rough Belt Medallions Pattern) (Image From: Unknown)

  Boots:

leia boots pic 2
(Leia’s Political Dress: Boots White Leather) (Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)
Luke Boots
(Luke Tatooine Farm Boots: Leather) (Images From: Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy)

Leia’s boots have flat bottoms without any heal, they also have what appear to be elastic panels sewn between slits in the leather. Her boots also come up to her knee and are what with brown soles. 

Other Links To Recourse:

Hair, Makeup & Belt:

Constructing Leia’s Gown:

Other:

Images From: