Crepe is a kind of fabric, more a texture than anything else, it can be made out of many different kinds’ fibers, but for Leia, I’d say a crepe silk would be the best bet. Much of the fabric used in Leia’s wardrobe is silk so it goes to reason that the blouse used in Return of the Jedi would not be an exception.
The stitching that was done to put Leia’s Ewok village dress together can be see under the decorative chamois leather lacing done over the top on many, but not all, of the seems of the dress.
Twi’ek’s have a widely varied representation in Star Wars; eyebrows are one of the facial features that seem to vary a little. Pretty much all female Twi’lek’s have human-like hair eyebrows, Oola, Aayla, the purple Twi’lek singer Lyn Me, Hera, Numa and more all have this feature.
Males on the other hand seem to have large and heavy brow that protrude out from the forehead. Bib Fortuna has one of the largest brows seen in Twi’leks. Cham Syndulla and other male Twi’lek’s seen throughout Star Wars Rebels and The Clone Wars also seem to share this heavy bulbous brow. And also do not appear to have hair on their brows.
The shapes of Twi’lek teeth tend to follow to veins, female Twi’leks tend to have flat human-like teeth. Aayla Securra, Hera, Oola and others all have these kings of teeth.
Male Twi’lek’s tend to have pointed teeth, like Bib Fortuna and Cham Syndulla, however, a little Twi’lek boy from the Clone Wars has flat teeth. It seems that male Twi’lek’s may vary between pointed and flat teeth.
It is rare to have actual measurements on costumes from movies, however, in the book, [Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy]. Leia’s slave bikini that she wears in Return of the Jedi at Jabba’s palace, appears in the book next to a ruler. The costume items seen in the pictures are not aligned perfectly on the ruler so a little figuring is required to get actual measurement. These pieces of course are measured to fit Carrie Fisher, and would have to be adjusted for every individual Leia. If you feeling like doing the math, these measurements plus knowing how tall Carrie Fisher was, can give you pretty exact proportions on the original costume. and from there adjust the costume to each individual Leia’s needs.
My measurement figuring comes out to roughly 8″ 1/2 inches for the bikini bottom at the top, (which in the photo is at the bottom of the picture, against the ruler). Leia’s armband is roughly 5″1/2 inches in length, measuring from one the curling end to the other.
Twi’lek’s have a rainbow range and more in coloration, they can be any shade of red, green, blue, purple, pink, yellow, and much more. These skin colors can come in modeled combinations or solid.
Twi’lek’s typically have lips colored differently than their bodies, however, sometimes a slightly darker version of their body color. Sometimes their lips are the same color as their body, this lip coloration patterning is the same for both female and males.
Twi’lek’s body colors can also include modeling, both male and females can have modeling, typical of two colors. Such as Cham Syndulla who has orange and cream modeling that almost takes on a semi striped pattern, though it should not go as far as actual strips. (See: green and red arrows for modeling, blue rectangle is tattooing.)
Other modeling appears blotchier such as the little Twi’lek girl in Star Wars The Clone Wars: Season 2 Episode 10. Blue and pink modeling appears in her body color, (see: green and red arrows.)
The patterning that appears on many of the Twi’lek’s does not appear to be tattoos, Aayla Secura has light blue specials/dots on her Lekku. Patterning is similar to modeling, however, patterning does not always or even typical cover the entire body, where as modeling typical does.
Other Twi’lek’s have speckling patterns on their bodies and Lekku such as the blue senate Twi’lek. She had a lighter blue speckling on her Lekku and her arms,
Hera has skin patterning of a lighter green circular patterning on her Lekku only, similar to Aayla Secura.
It seems that only Lekku being patterned is the most common variant, there is a range from no patterning, to just the Lekku, to the Lekku and body patterning. The most common variation for Twi’leks is to not have any patterning at all, such as Oola or Numa (see picture below.)
Suu Lawquane, the mother of the little Twi’lek girl with modeling, that appears in Star Wars The Clone Wars: Season 2 Episode 10, has dark pink patterning over her entire body in a dotted-spiral and circular pattern. It is also possible that Suu Lawquane’s skin patterns are actually tattoos.
Tattoos and Scars:
Cham Syndulla has tattooing over his Lekku and face, other Twi’lek’s also appear to have tattooing. As above mentioned, Suu Lawquane might have tattooing instead of pattering, Darth Talon is an example from the Legends EU of a Twi’lek with tattooing.
Mara Jade is a great character first introduced in the Star Wars trilogy, Heir to the Empire, written by Timothy Zhan. One of the few woman to populate the galaxy before the Prequels came out, Mara Jade becomes the wife of Luke Skywalker and mother of Ben Skywalker in the now Legends EU. Originally an agent for the Empire, Mara Jade later becomes one of the first new Jedi.
Mara Jade’s Black Jumpsuit Outfit that is her most recognizable look appear in the Dark Horse Comic adaptation of the Heir To The Empire, Thrown Trilogy. (Images From: Dark Force Rising Comics: Mara Jade: Black Jumpsuit)
Twi’lek’s are some of the oldest and best loved aliens in Star Wars, this post is part of a series braking down Twi’lek’s from the movies and TV shows.
Ears and ear-cones, these are variously listening appendages that Twi’leks have and can sometimes be a little inconsistently represented in Star Wars. In Return of the Jedi, Bib Fortuna has human like ears, these ears where actually part of the prosthetic that was built for the actor.
Oola has a headdress that covers her ears and is where the idea of the ear-cones most likely arose. In the concept art for when Oola’s design was human shows that the white cones are a part of her headdress. However, since than Oola’s headdress seems to have morphed into ear-cons for female Twi’leks.
The purple Twi’lek singer Lyn Me does not appear to have ear-cone, instead her headdress covers her ears and as there are no lumps under the headdress it appear that her ears are likely to be like Bib Fortuna’s and are humanoid ears. Which is why it seems likely that Oola’s headdress is the point origin for ear-cones.
Getting into the prequels, Aayla Securra and all other Twi’leks have what appear to be ear-cones. These ear-cones are the same color as their Lekku and skin so it looks like they are what female Twi’lek’s have for ears. No male Twi’lek to date has been represented with ear-cones. (see further down article for male Twi’lek’s ears.)
Star Wars The Clone Wars has several different episode that future Twi’lek’s heavily, in these episodes the male Twi’lek’s have humanoid ears and humanoid ears with points.
My Unfounded Theory:
It’s possible that the first Twi’lek’s from [Retune of the Jedi] had normal humanoid ears, but Oola’s headdress has been interpreted into ear-cones. (Note: that in concept art as seen earlier in this post, the ear-cons are a part of Oola’s headdress, particularly in her human design.) The idea of Twi’lek’s morphed from what they had stared as in [Retune of the Jedi] and developed into something new. So in this theory the female Twi’lek’s ears have been retconned and now they have ear-cones instead of humanoid ears.
It also appears that some of the hats that Twi-lek woman wear have decorative covers that go over the ear-cones.
In The Empire Strikes Back Leia wears a white snow suit through most of the movie, and with this snow suit she wears two different pairs of boots. On Hoth and while on the run on the Millennium Falcon Leia wears light grey boots with wedge heals. According to Star Wars Costume: The Original Trilogy, Leia’s boots where styled loosely off of mukluks,
when Leia’s in cloud city after she’s been captured by the Empire she changes her boots to a pair of white leather boots with a tall heal and a zipper up the back.
“Silk crepe de chine, from the French “crepe of China”, is a famously versatile silk, possessing a very glossy luster and a subtle texture, as well as a surprisingly light weight and truly excellent drape. The fabric, slightly more textured than silk 4-ply woven crepe, is made with tightly twisted weft yarns, or filling, running in reverse directions from left to right. These twisted yarns produce both the crepe texture of the material and its flexible drape. Silk crepe de chine is probably the most durable of cultivated silks – those woven of single, reeled strands – and is found to be exceedingly even and uniform in texture. Silk crepe de chine is popular for bridal and formal evening wear, and also works well in blouses and men’s shirts. Also used in home décor, the fabric lends a light and luxurious feel to any project. Silk crepe de chine is also an exceptionally forgivable silk when it comes to sewing, as it takes thread well and will typically not fray overly when cut. Dry cleaning is the recommended method of care for this fabric”.
The body of Leia’s political dress is very simple; the dress seems to be cut out on a ‘T’ pattern, the fabric being folded in half fully length ways and then again width ways.
Because of the way the fabric is folded before cutting there are only 2 seems one on ether sides. There is no front or back seems, there are also no shoulder seems and no seem on the top of the sleeves. There are really only 4 seems on Leia’s dress, the 2 side seems which are continuous up through the underside of the sleeves, 1 seem for the collar and the seem for the keyhole back opening.
The side seems are left open from about the knee down, to allow for ease of movement, this split in the dress does no go any high then Leia’s knee, (roughly just below the knee cap).
Leia’s political dress is self lined, meaning that the same fabric that was used to make the dress is used to line it. Leia’s dress has the raw seams enclosed between the lining and the body of the dress.
The bottom hem of the dress comes down to break at the top of Leia’s foot and is a folded hem that is secured down with invisible stitching, possibly sewn by hand.
The top of Leia’s dress is blouses and appears to have elastic ruching used to gather in the waist. (Sadly there are no pockets).
Though different necklines where plaid around with in the concept art faze for Leia’s political dress, the approved design has a turtleneck collar (possibly more of a mock-turtleneck since it does not fold over). This turtleneck collar closed in the back with what appear to be hooks and eyes that are sewn on the inside of the collar so they are not visible from the outside.
Princess Leia’s political dress closes with a series of hooks and eyes closer at the neck, and a keyhole back opening. This opening is more or less a strait cut opening down the center back that goes no lower than mid shoulder blade.
Leia’s hood is made out of a single layer of crepe de chine (so it’s not lined), the hood comes down to roughly just below the top of Leia’s hips. The hood seems to be likely cut out on a trapezoid shape and gathered on the edges before being sewn under the collar.
The hood is attached under the turtleneck collar and the hoods hem is a rolled hem which is stitched down by hand with an invisible stitch. The hood is also left open in the back and is not a closed hood, the fabric for the most part lays over the top of the head.
Leia’s political dress has open wide cut sleeves, Leia’s sleeves at the widest point, the wrist, appear to be more than 14” long (Pam’s Costumes: suggests 14″ inches in length for the sleeves). The image below shows Leia’s hand at shoulder level and the sleeves drops down to roughly Leia’s waist. (Perspective in the image has to be taken into account when figuring out the proper length of the sleeve.)
Note: that for movies there are lots of the same costume made, and often times those used during action sequences will have shorter hems and less full skirts and sleeves. It is likely then that Leia’s dress will appear slightly different throughout the movie and promo stills.
There are no shoulder seems or seems on the top of the sleeves, [some of the patterns that were released had raglan sleeves; however, this is not how the screen dress is constructed]. Since the dress is cut out on a ‘T’ pattern, the only seems that exists are on the underside of the sleeves where it’s the continuation of the single body seem on the side of the dress.
Leia’s political dress belt was made to have a medieval look, the belt itself is made out of leather with aluminum medallions. Leia’s belt also has a clear line of stitching around the entire border.
There are 7 to 8 medallions depending on the belt (the belt worn in ANH has more medallions then the belt worn in ESB). There are 6 to 7 rectangular medallions and 1 center diamond medallion (though more rectangular medallions can be added as needed as long as there evenly spaced). The medallions are made out of aluminum and snaps are used to close the belt in the back. In some versions of the belt, such as the one worn in ANH, a medallion covers up the snap closure, however, the belt worn in ESB appears to only have 7 medallions, leaving the snaps uncovered. (This picture pattern below for the medallions is a rough pattern and may have to be adjusted for each individual Leia, figuring out proportions helps.)
(Note: crepe de chine is most likely the fabric used for the dress, as the other construction details in Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy seems to check out with what is known about the dress from other sources.)
Twi’lek’s are some of the oldest and best loved aliens in Star Wars; they are also some of the most varied representation within the movies and TV shows. This post is the first in a series braking down Twi’lek’s from the movies and TV shows.
Lekku are the head-tails, also known as, head-appendages, brain-tails and head-tentacles, that are the Twi’lek’s defining futures. Many of the ready-made for perches Lekku are not movie accurate, (that said, they are still good for costumes.)
Lekku Height & Position:
Often the main problem with these ready-made Lekku is that the tentacle is both too high and to close together and often leaving out the defining bulb shape at the base where the Lekku are attached to the skull. Aayla Securra and the background Twi’lek’s may be the reason for the height of the Lekku becoming exaggerated. Aayla’s Lekku are higher up on her head than all the other Twi’lek’s featured before her, However, all Twi’lek’s that are featured in the movies and TV shows of Star Wars have their Lekku lower then the top of their skull.
(Note: The Lekku also come out from the side of the head, not the top, the center of the female Lekku roughly fall in line with the temple generally.)
Male Twi’lek’s Lekku are also lower then the top of the skull and also come out from the side of the head. However, they typical seem to come down from an angle more in the back of the skull, and lower down then female Twi’lek’s.
The widths of the Lekku spacing is often too close in ready made items, in the movies the Lekku appear to be roughly about a hand width apart. Lekku come out of the back and side of the skull running towards the back, which is why they stay behind the shoulders. The width between the Lekku can be more then a hand width like on Oola,and Hera, both of which seem to have wider set Lekku.
Female vs. Male Lekku
Female Twi’lek’s have their Lekku placed differently than males, for the most part female Lekku are higher up and out to the sides of the head more so then the males.
Male Lekku come out of the skull lower down at the base and back of the skull from behind the ears, they don’t have the base of the Lekku bulb shape as visible from the front the way females do.
Hera’s Lekku like many of the other female Twi’lek’s come out from higher up on her skull and out to the side more. Cham’s Lekku come out lower down on his skull and more from the back of his skull, they also angle downwards which is typical for the males. A general shape that female Lekku follow it a upside down U, where as male Lekku follow an upside down V shape.