Mock-Fortuny pleating is featured in several Star Wars Costumes, all of them from Naboo. It seems to be a Naboo easthetic in the Galaxy Far Far Away. Unfortunately Fortuny Pleating is a lost wonder of the fashion world, in a nutshell the means to create the pleating died with Mariano Fortuny the man who invented it and as of yet has not fully been recovered. The Padawan’s Guide has already touched on the similarities between many of the Naboo clothing and Fortuny Pleating.
The Fortuny Dresses are sometimes refereed to as The Delphos Gown, and where very created to be a house dress and later a tea gown worn by wealthy woman at the turn of the 19th’s century. The wonderful thing about these original gowns is that they must be twisted into a small ball for storage, which means they take up very little room.
In Star Wars, Padme and her Handmaidens wear gowns with a similar pleating. Though it is not stated anywhere we have found yet that this was that the Delphos Gowns where an influence on the Naboo aesthetic, the light silks and unique pleating of the gowns makes a good case that they where.
Star Wars has many known and unknown inspirations and influences, this series will be focusing on similarities, possible influences and possible inspiration that helped shape the look of the Galaxy. Silhouettes, fabrics, and color palette among many, many other factors will all be looked at and explored.
Though there is no evidence we have come across to support this as fact, nevertheless, it is undeniable that Padme’s Green Velvet Gown that she wears in Revenge of the Sith shares many similarities to the The Arnolfini Portrait. Because of of these similarities we are looking at the possibility of this painting being the partial inspiration for the esthetic of Padme Green Velvet Robe.
The similarities between the gowns can be seen in
the color, dark greens,
the weight of the fabric, the paintings is a heavy wool and Padme’s is a heavy velvet.
special linings, the Portraits is fur, Padme’s is patterned and purple
purple belts, though it is a little harder to tell if the paintings belt is purple for sure, never the less the belt placement is the same
a hood (Padme) and hood silhouette to the veil (Mrs. Arnolfini).
Special decorations on the sleeves,
long flowing gown that comes out from under the bust.
According to A Stitch In Time Episode 2, for a very long time people believed that the woman in the Arnolfini Portrait was pregnant. Though this is not the case, it is very easy to see why that would be assumed, she dose look pregnant, without a particular knowledge of the fashion and time period it is essay to assume. The woman in the painting has a silhouette that is similar to Padme’s, who is pregnant.
This is one of the few garments that we think is a spastic influence on a spastic dress instead of simply sharing a more common aesthetic.
Padmé’s Meadow Picnic Dress from [Star Wars: Episode II: Attack of the Clones,] has a complicated underskirt to figure out. Photo’s from The Padawan’s Guide suggests that the underskirt is a multi colored pastel skirt of sheer fabric.
(AOTC: Padmé: Meadow Picnic Underskirt Colors) (Image from Padawan’s Guide, Exhibit Photos, Breakdown Photos) (Left Image adjusted to show the colors brighter, Right Image original)
The three distinct colors that can for sure be seen in the above photo are pale pink, pale yellow, and pale green. These are similar to the colors that appear in the ribbons on the sleeves of the dress, so it’s possible that the same colors that appear in the ribbons also appear in the underskirt.
A close examination of photos from the movie and promo stills from The Padawan’s Guide, shows that there are visible colors underneath the gold/yellow over-skirt. The photo below shows a distinctive pink color to the underskirt.
The photo below shows the underskirt as having both pink and yellow in it distinctively.
The ribbons appear to be light green, pale green, pale pink, pale yellow and pale cream-yellow all in pastel colors.
One fan made costume took what appears to be the approach of making the underskirt with pastel colors fading into one another stripped diagonally across the skirt. (Note: that in the second photo below, with the over-skirt down, the fan made costume looks very slimier to the photos of the actual meadow picnic dress. With fain colors showing through the gold/yellow over-skirt.)
It appears that the direction of the pastel colors of the underskirts run more or less vertically.
(Note: The Padawan’s Guide says that “the skirt is only two layers “ of fabric. However, there is so much fabric that it may look like there are more layers then there actually are.)
The Dressing the Galaxy book, says that something like 50 yards of fabric where used in the making of the over-skirt. There is some debate on whether 50 yards could actually have been used. However, as it is a very tightly pleated skirt made out of very thin sheer fabric, 50 yards is not unrealistic, for this skirt. whether using 50 or 10 yards of fabric the underskirt should have the same volume as the over-skirt, a lot of fabric will be needed, in either case.
Leia’s Hoth crown braid has no part, the hair is brushed back from the front of the face.
The back of Leia’s Hoth drown braid has no part, this is the tricky part, but there is no back parting to the hair, this is likely because the braids are a hair piece that is pinned on and not an actually crown braid. More on this later.
Leia’s Hoth crown braid has a side curl in-front of the ears where the side burns are, these are small and not very thick, they also do not go lower then the jaw line generally.
Leia’s Hoth crown braids are actually two braids, or if you like, one very, very long braid that goes over the top of her head. however, when the braid is wrapped around her head it forms two rows of braids. On the back of Leia’s head the two rows are very clear and separate. See pink and green marking them. Over the top of Leia’s head the narrower part of the braids are crossed over each other to look like one thick braid. Where as the back of Leia’s braids are positioned to look like a double braid.
Hidden Little Bun:
Leia’s real hair is short and appears to be pulled back into a small bun at the base of her neck. This bun is flat and hidden beneath the double row of braids that cross over the back of her head. This is why there is no back part to Leia’s hair, the braids are a hair piece and not a real crown braid so there is no need for there to be a part in the hair.
Leia’s braid is positioned further back on her head and behind the ears, notice the soft C shape that the braids back curving over the back of her head.
These behind the scene photos show Leia with the braids hanging loose and though it hard to see it dose appears that the braids one long braid that is pinned on the top of her head and wrapped around the sides.
This products is simple to use, the color is a dark mat gold with a metallic gold thread accent. The product is good quality and is what you would expect from a crochet thread, the only con is with a lot of unraveling the gold metallic thread comes away from the base thread.
Affordably ($3.50, roughly)
Easy to use
Color seems accurate to movie
Metallic Thread comes unwound with a lot of unraveling so if you need to restart your project several times this can be an issue.
Using Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread in Gold/Gold, is simple and very much like using any other crochet thread. The only complaints that can be maid about using the thread is that if you have to unravel your crochet several time, (3 or more) then the metallic gold thread will start unwinding from the old gold colored crochet thread base. This makes it more difficult to have a nice finished look and the metallic thread can get tangled on the hook and makes it difficult to crochet. However, if you don’t have to unravel your crochet thread, multiple times, it seems to be fine. The crochet thread is affordable and for the purposes of making Padmé’s bun covers only one skein is required. Be advised, while crocheting the thread can get twisted so much that it starts twisting in on itself, however, this seems to be more of a problem with the technique of crocheting instead of a product defect.
Padmé wears this Purple evening gown in Star Wars The Clone Wars, Season 2 Episode 4, Senate Spy. If looking for a very sexual costume from Star Wars without the problematic issues of Slave Leia, then this might be a good choice.
(In summery: Slave Leia is problematic when taken out of it’s story context as a position that Leia is forced into by Jabba. The difference between Padmé and Leia wearing sex-ulized outfits is consent. Padmé elects to wear her revealing clothing Leia does not.)
Because this dress only appears in cartoon form there will have to be some adjusting to translate into the real world. It can be easy to translate cartoons into the real world exactly, however, this often times can looks very cartoonish and if that is not the aim isn’t important to pay attention to the details. Being careful of watching proportions so that translating it into the real world looks good. Also consider that all of these proportions will have to be adjusted for each individual Padmé.
Because it is a cartoon that is specifically designed to look like painted wooded puppet, the fabric Padmé’s dress is made out of is difficult to figure out. The dress seems to be made out of a fairly heavy fabric the way it moves, the dress appears to be made out of a semi shiny fabric, such as a heavy satin. The gown color is a dark dusky purple, there is a light purple color on the front of her dress that makes up the symbols on her gown. (Because its used so widely in Star Wars, silk would be a good fabric to use for this dress, silk often times has a semi shiny look while not being overly lustrous.)
Padmé’s purple Clone Wars evening gown has a fishtail skirt, also known as a mermaid skirt. Padmé’s dress also appears to has a narrow ‘A’ line skirt, meaning that the skirt of the dress does not fit tightly around her legs, instead it it snug around the hips and follows an ‘A’ shape down to the hem. (Note: That the ‘A’ line dress, is a more narrow ‘A’ line so it resembles a closer fitting fishtail dress.)
Padmé’s evening gown also has a clear train, the train is noticeable, however, it is not very long. a good estimate would be a little over a foot so many 14″ for the train. this of course depending on each individual Padmé.
Padmé’s skirt is very full, there is a lot of fabric moving when she comes down the stairs, the fishtail part of the skirt which is the widest part of the dress is very full.
Padmé’s dress also goes all the way down to the floor and her shoes cannot be seen when she is standing. The floor length of the dress seems to be just touching the floor in front and a small but significant train in the back.
The bodice of Padmé’s dress has a slight sweetheart neckline, the bodice also does not come up very high on her chest.
The bodice appears to come up to roughly top of the triceps below Padmé’s shoulder,
Padmé’s bodice is open on the side, there is no back to her dress, the bodice comes completely around her breast and onto the side of her ribs (see green line for edge of breast and pink line for edge of dress in picture below).
The bodice of Padmé’s dress is also very structured, from the top down to the bottom of her rib-cage. The bodice hugs closely to her body, until the bottom of her ribs, then the fabrics of her dress becomes somewhat less structured and is looser and has a very slight drape around her lower back and side (see blue arrows for drape of fabric in picture below).
The gaping between Padmé’s dress and her back is more obvious in the picture below, however, note: that the gaping in not very much just enough to tell that the dress is not structured in its lower half.
There is no back too Padmé’s gown, Padmé’s dress comes down very low into a soft round shape. The dress back is lower then Padmé’s natural waist, and appears to show her upper lower back, much like her lake dress from Attack of the Clones. (See blue line for bottom edge of dress, green for waist and red for shape of back of Padmé’s dress.)
The gloves that Padmé wears with her evening gown also double as sleeves, these gloves have a cut out that is the shape of an rectangle with rounded ends. The top of the cut outs on the sleeves falls in line the middle of Padmé’s chest. The bottom of the cut outs on Padmé’s gloves falls roughly in line between the bottom of Padmé’s rib cage, and her natural waist, the cut outs also end several inches above the elbow.
Padmé’s gloves are cut very high, the fabric goes up to her underarm but does not attack to the dress in any way and also does not have a lot of extra fabric there.
The top of Padmé’s glove is a rounded shape that comes up over her shoulders, the sleeves also seem to be structured. Note: that the rounded top of the sleeve that covers Padmé’s shoulder is flush to her body. This indicates a form of structure that also allows glove to stay in place on her arm, (see blue arrow). The lower half that comes around the under Padmé’s arm is not flush with her arm, (see green arrow).
Padmé’s gloves also have a detail on the top rounded part that covers her shoulders, it appears to be cut wide enough to allow for several small folds to occur through the structured part of the glove. almost reminiscent of a very, very slightly puffed sleeve (see link for reference image of puffed sleeve).
Padmé’s hair is styles in a simple three strand braid down from the base of her back and down her back, the braid falls down to middle of Padmé’s back. Her braid is fastened at the end if a apparently metal semi cone shaped decorative fastener.
The Shoes that Padmé wears with her evening gown are the same color of purple as her gown. though it is hard to see it appears that she has a squared/rounded toe to her shoe, in the lower second picture vaguely appears to be middle average in height high heals, or more accurately pumps they appear to have some kind of back to them.
Padmé’s dress has seven symbols on the front of it in descending size and order from her lower abdomen.
Padmé carries a bag with her evening gown, one of the few times she is ever seen with a bag. Her clutch bag is the matched to her dress and is the same purple color with silver accents like her hair fastener.
Aunt Lydias Crochet Thread is a grate option for making Padme’s meadow picnic bun covers. The color is a dark gold/yellow with metallic gold thread running through it much like the thread used in the movies.
Note: working with this thread is fairly simple, however, it is important to know that unraveling the project a lot will cause the metallic thread to come away from the gold/yellow base. Also note that this thread will wind up on itself.
Level of Difficulty: = Padawan
Jedi Council Member
Grand Master Jedi Council
Amidala for DIY Galaxy found the thread featured in the pictures at Jo-Ann’s Fabrics, however, it can also be found online at other stores.
Padme’s hairstyle has a center part on the top of her head, but no back part, the rest of her hair is pulled back into a low small bun on her base of her neck.
Hair Piece Over Bun:
Padme’s real hair, which it actually about shoulder length, is wrapped into a small bun that is tightly pinned at the base of her neck and has a hairnet of a matching dark color placed over it. Over top of that small bun the hair piece is place, this is made out of coils of hair that have been wrapped around a flexible base. This hair piece is attacked to the small bun and the coils are bent around the small bun.
Bun Coil Shape:
Sometimes the bun is flattened a little, this appeaser to be from action as most of the time the bun appears rounded.
Height of Bun:
The height of the bun rests below or roughly inline with the middle of the back of her head, a rough measurement is the top of the bun should be in line with or blow the bottom outer corner of the eyebrow. The bottom of the bun falls roughly in line with the her bottom lip.
Padme’s bun is slightly narrower then the back of her head,
Number of Coils to Bun:
It appears that Padme’s bun coils in this image are about 7 separate coils, these coils are intertwined through each other and form into soft ovals, slightly rounder shapes and a few narrow ovals. Some are more ex-stream then others with number 2 in the image, highlighted by the orange, bent almost in half with a curved edge where it is bend around the small bun.
Hair is one of the most stunning pieces of costuming in the Star Wars franchise, however, sometimes working with synthetic hair can be difficult. Here are some suggestions that might make working with synthetic hair easier.
Why Synthetic Hair?:
Synesthetic hair is a better option for making hair pieces for achieve Star Wars hair styles then human hair in most cases. Often times human hair is unethically sourced so avoiding it is a good idea, unless you know it’s origins. That said, if your human hair can he ethically sourced then it can also work well, however, it is always going to be a less affordable option.
Some articles that break down the ethical issues of human hair extensions
Synthetic hair is also more affordable, for many of the hairstyles in Star Wars a lot of hair is required, and that can become very expensive. Synthetic hair like Kenekalon Braiding Hair and other brands like it are typically a more affordable option when buying a lot of hair. Synesthetic hair can also hold up longer then human hair when taken care of
Another alternative to human hair is horse hair, buying horse hair extensions, they are less affordable and depending on the sealer may also be unethically sourced. However, as an option, the hair is natural and looks so.
Weight, real human hair can be heavy, synthetic hair is often times lighter weight then real hair and can be worn longer because of this.
Styling products, when styling with synthetic hair, styling products such as hair spray or moose, are not needed, because the hairs are all the same length unless altered there are few if any fly-always that need to be smoothed.
When using synesthetic hair for a costuming it can be hard to find a matching color, this is partly due to the fact that natural hair is not one color, humans have several different colors making up teach individuals hair including high-light and low-lights. Synesthetic hair is typically one color, and it’s hard to match and make it look natural right out of the package. For a more natural look blending 2 too 3 colors of hair together will help, see video for tutorial on blending. (Note: for making hair look more natural, using more of the base color and chose a smaller amount of your high-lights and low-lights.)
2 of the main textures for synesthetic hair are natural or yaki and silky, both will work great, however, most Star Wars hairstyles in the movies use a silky finish, this is not as important when doing a hairstyle such as Classic Leia (a.k.a Political Gown Leia), however, most of the headdresses that Queen Amidala wears require silky hair finish to be used, such as her Red Invasion Gown headdress.
Synesthetic hair can tangle easily, so to untangle it start by brushing or combing depending on the need, at the ends and slowly working up the tail of the hair. Starting at the top and going to the ends will only make the tangling worse and more difficult to get out. Sometimes using fingers to come the hair can be easier then a brush, and if using a brush a wig brush would probably work better then a normal hair brush. For general untangling and styling a wide toothed come works grate.
For some people synthetic hair can be itchy right out of the package, to remove the coating the hair comes with make a bath or water and vinegar and let the hair sock a while, then rinse and let dry. This processes might be easiest if the hair is still in its loosely braided form that it comes in right out of the package.
Storing the synthetic hair for reuse, put a fabric covered elastic at the center of the hair bundle and loosely braid the hair. Coil the braid into a circle and place inside a hairnet. See Alexa Poletti’s video on storing wigs.
By now, you’ve probably seen the trailer for the latest Star Wars installment, The Force Awakens. If you’re like me, you’ve already bought your tickets (come on, December 18!) But even a casual observer of the Star Wars phenomenon is probably at least a little bit curious about the massive film’s newest star, 23-year-old British actress Daisy Ridley. She plays the lead role of Rey, a droid scrapper living on the desert planet Jakku. “When we find Rey, she’s covered in grease and dirt. She’s been living alone for a long time,” says Amanda Knight, the film’s makeup-department head. “She’s dirty because she was scavenging parts from spaceships, so she had to really look like she’s hard-core and gets into fights. This girl kicks ass.” Here’s how Knight, hair designer Lisa Tomblin, and their teams brought Rey to life.
Minimal makeup. What does a droid scrapper wear for an even complexion that’s not trying too hard?Tom Ford. His Traceless Foundation is sheer and just a little glow-y. Knight flicked a few freckles on top with brown cream pigment. Knight added subtle warmth to Ridley’s cheeks withBy Terry Brightening CC Lumi-Serum in Sunny Flash. “It’s very sheer, so it gives you a real sun-kissed look and the tiniest amount of contour,” she says.
Desert sands. Knight got down and dirty bytapping brown M.A.C. and Skin Illustrator pigments all over Ridley’s skin. But she also used actual dirt—or rather sand. “We took sand from the desert where we were filming and boiled it in water to sterilize it,” she says. “Then we’d stick it on Daisy’s face before each take. But it didn’t really matter. When she was filming fight scenes, she was facedown in the sand anyway. And there was nothing sterile about that at all. Poor Daisy really went through it.”
Her eyes. Ridley’s eyes were smoked out just a little bit (“J. J. [Abrams, the film’s director] didn’t want too much,” says Knight) with adark-brown liner from Bobbi Brown that she smudged and smudged. She applied ataupe shadow just in the crease, then coated her lashes with Kanebo Sensai 38C mascara, an intense formula that locks onto lashes until it’s removed with superhot water (hence the name, or about 100 degrees Fahrenheit). “We didn’t want her looking like she had full mascara on. The Kanebo mascara has a tiny little brush; it worked well and didn’t smudge. We put it at the root and didn’t brush it all the way through,” she says.
The new buns. Rey wears her hair in three segmented buns (or “knobs,” as Tomblin calls them) throughout the film. “I tried to think of a style that was cool, practical, and different—and not so fussy,” says Tomblin. And of course, “it’s a nod to Princess Leia,” she says. To secure each knot, Tomblin chose a piece of brown wool. “It’s rustic, like something she’d find in the desert.”
Serious sun protection. On the Abu Dhabi desert set, sun protection was a top priority. (See? Even Jedis wear sunscreen!) “We took it very seriously,” says Knight. “In the morning, we’d apply SPF 50+ under Daisy’s makeup.” Knight also discovered a Banana Boat mist available locally. “We’d apply it to her face every hour. It didn’t mess up the makeup, and it wasn’t too shiny. As soon as the take was over, we’d duck under umbrellas. Not only was it over 100 degrees, but the reflection off the sand was brutal.”